As has happened the last few summers, the esteemed wine writer, Stephen Tanzer of the International Wine Cellar, swings through Washington and there is an event where much wine was drank with him and a gaggle of other wine nerds. I did my duty to absorb as much information and vino as possible. Here now, is what happened that evening.
We like wine. Using the royal ‘We’, America’s wine consumption is growing by the year. Join in the imbibing with these Seattle-area wine purveyors. Support local! Here is a quick rundown of area tasting rooms, shops, and retailers and the days where they do some pourings. Cheers.
-Frequent tastings throughout the week, check website
McCarthy & Schiering
-Every Saturday 11-5pm (both locations)
Pike & Western
-Wednesday 4-6pm, $5
-Friday 3-6pm, complimentary
-Tue & Wed 3-9pm
Sixth Avenue Wine Seller
-Thursday 3-7pm, $10
The Tasting Room
-During business hours $2-5pm
West Seattle Wine Cellars
-Thursday 5:30-8pm, complimentary
Wine World & Spirits
-Every weekday 6-8pm
-Every weekend 2-5pm
I’ve had the good fortune of attending the annual wine tasting with the wine reviewer, Stephen Tanzer (of International Wine Cellar and Winophilia). This is the fifth year running where David Hamilton organizes the event, curates the wine with Steve, and invites us wine nerds to a decadent and entertaining night of drinking the best that our region offers. Every year, I have an idea of what to expect, and every year, I come away with something unexpected. The 2012 edition was no different.
What was once a small intimate gathering of like-minded wine drinkers has now opened up to include winemakers and a few more guests. Thankfully, it’s as intimate as a whisper, but as fun as a party. The attendance of winemakers over the years has made for an interesting dynamic; on one hand, you get insight into the style of wine and how they arrive at their bottle destination. On the other hand, there can be some awkwardness when their wine is voted on by those in the room as the most and least favorite. Even in ultra-polite Seattle, sometimes a local winemaker gets some tough love. But what’s great about having the winemakers attend is that you can speak to them as fellow wine drinkers, chat about what excites them, and hear inside information you wouldn’t get from visiting their tasting rooms or reading about their wines. We were fortunate to sit with Sean Boyd of Woodinville Wine Cellars and had a blast while talking about wine, eating good food from the Tom Douglas Restaurant team at the Palace Ballroom, and soaking in the conversation in the room that typifies this annual event. Continue reading
This post first appeared on Seattlest.
Over the last few summers a wine event in Seattle has flown so far under the radar most wine fans don’t know it happens. And just a few weeks ago, it occurred yet again. Stephen Tanzer is one of the more renowned wine reviewers in the world. His International Wine Cellar newsletter (and Winophilia blog) is required reading for winos. In my opinion, he’s part of the big three with Jancis Robinson and Robert Parker. And he’s part of this wine event that happens the past few summers.
I’ve been fortunate to attend these wine tastings. The first was in 2008 at Art of the Table. The theme that year was the five best Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, in Tanzer’s estimation, that Washington can produce. It was a great event which opened my eyes to the capability of our state’s wines. An added benefit was the opportunity to learn from Tanzer, which has been a bonus to every year’s tasting. In 2009, the event was moved to Tom Douglas’ Palace Ballroom. The theme followed suit, but Tanzer added the wrinkle of one of his favorite Syrahs and Cabs from other parts of the world as points of comparison. 2010 focused all Syrah, showcasing the very best that Washington can produce with this Rhone varietal. In attendance were some of the winemakers whose bottles were being poured that evening. A great night to be a wine nerd.
The theme for the 2011 tasting? To shine the light on 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab blends from Washington. That particular vintage was highlighted because of the class that it showed and also to have some wine with a touch more bottle age. Why Cabernet? To see what this noble grape can do in the vineyards of our state and in the hands of area winemakers. Speaking of those winemakers, they were again in attendance. Always interesting to see the give and take of what Steve tasted, what the winemakers discuss, and how the crowd responds to the wines – all at the same time.
I was familiar with most of the wines; regardless, all of them had me intrigued to see what Steve Tanzer and the event organizer, David Hamilton, had in store for us. What was exciting about the evening was to try all of these wines in an open format with one of the world’s pre-eminent wine critics shepherding us. This was the format of all the past tastings and it made for a rare wine night to learn and try some world class wines.
Here are the wines that were poured in 2011:
- Long Shadows Vintners Collection Chester-Kidder Red Wine Columbia Valley
- Cadence Winery Bel Canto Red Wine Red Mountain
- Betz Family Winery Le Parrain Red Wine Columbia Valley
- Grand Reve Vintners Collaborations Series I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
- DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Red Wine Yakima Valley
- Soos Creek Wine Cellars Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Wine Red Mountain
- Corliss Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
- Januik Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
- Chateau Rollat Edouard de Rollat Walla Walla Valley
- Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Bottling Two Columbia Valley
- Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley
- Quilceda Creek Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
The folks that were at the event to represent their wineries were:
- Bob Betz – Betz Family Winery
- Chris Upchurch – DeLille Cellars
- John Abbott – Abeja
- David Larsen – Soos Creek Wine Cellars
- Gilles Nicault – Long Shadows
- Paul Mcbride – Grand Reve Vintners
In going through this horizontal tasting, the first two flights were red blends with a focus on Bordeaux varietals and how they leaned on Cabernet Sauvignon. The last two flights were almost all Cabernet Sauvignon. As we went through the flights we noted that though these wines did have some age, they were still relatively young. One wine in particular was noted as having life through 2030 in its tasting notes. A key to tasting any red wine is to pay attention to the tannins; are they chunky and harsh? Or fine-grained and supple? Tannins are one of the hallmarks of red wine and having a gauge of their context can help in the appreciation of what you’re drinking.
As we went through the flights, I thought back on last year. On Syrah and how this grape shows much promise in Washington. I remembered the high level wine nerd discussion that broke out when the subject of clonal differences came up; how this clone was better than that one. This year, the talk was a bit more straightforward, not quite as geeky, but still plenty nerdy. We discussed the essence of terroir. That magical French notion, where wine exhibits a sense of place and if it exists in Washington. While some of the winemakers say that yes, Washington does have it, but because many of the wines come from grapes across the best vineyards of Eastern Washington, the goal of the best wine is what they aim for.
We also spent time reminiscing on the 2005 vintage. Often considered one of the great recent vintages for Washington, it gave the winemakers grapes to make great wine. And for most of the winemakers, they spoke fondly as to what Mother Nature gave them and how the conditions were ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon; the Indian summer that year attributed to the structure of the grapes. That 2005 was a vintage where a winemaker could let the grapes shine. One of the things that I consider when tasting wines, can you taste the winemaking? Can you notice the level of oak that went into the wine? As we embarked in tasting, my mind was swimming in how to taste just these components.
Of the wines we had, my personal favorite was the one from Soos Creek Wine Cellars. I didn’t know much about them going into the evening, but it was an elegant and beguiling Bordeaux-style blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 18% Cabernet Franc. The tannins were like sand with a mid-palate of dried fruits and a rich and fulfilling finish. This wine was great. Even better was that it was unexpected. I’ll be keeping my eye on Soos Creek and the other offerings from David Larsen.
The other winethat stood out to me (note – all of the wines were very good, some just resonated with me that evening more than others) was the Betz ‘Le Parrain‘. We learned from Bob Betz that ‘Le Parrain’ means Godfather, and they don’t make it that often (once in the last 15 years) and this vintage fit the bill to make it. I also really enjoyed the offerings from Januik, Chateau Rollat and Leonetti Cellar. Who am I kidding? All were good.
One of my favorite moments of these dinners is learning about the up-and-coming wineries in Steve Tanzer’s estimation. It was at the event in 2008 where he told us about Corliss Estates. When he was telling us about Corliss Estates, most in the room never heard about it. Now wine nerds all know about this Walla Walla winery. Here are the wineries that Tanzer was particularly impressed by in his recent visit: Kerloo Cellars, Tulpen Cellars (for their Sangiovese), Saviah Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars (although their labels leave a lot to be desired), Den Hoed Wine Estates, Eight Bells Winery (particularly the Syrah), Obelisco Estate, Woodinville Wine Cellars, Efeste (white wines were showing particularly well), and Gorman Winery (their best vintage to date). I wonder what Steve’s thought is of Figgins, the new bottle from Figgins Family Wine?
What was exciting and exasperating about this tasting is the exclusivity and scarcity of these wines. It was an honor to be able to taste the high caliber of wines, and exasperating in that they are all probably impossible to get at retail. We’re probably setting sail into the world of wine auctions and the like on eBay, I have no idea how that will work out. So good luck finding any of these.
Key takeaways from that evening; we drank a lot of great wine. The 2005 vintage provides a barometer for how great Washington wines can be. The 2008 vintage is very exciting and quite good. The price and value of Washington wines is amazing. Soos Creek was my winner for the evening. But all of the wines were very good, and some a part of the status of Washington’s new cult wines. And now I’m looking forward to the 2012 edition of this epic wine tasting.
This post originally appeared on Seattlest.
We’re into the second week of August and summer (by Seattle standards) has settled into a groove. Seafair is over. Bumbershoot is right around the corner. On the beverage front, we’re enjoying rose, sparkling wine, and lighter fare to match the breezy notion of the season. But as August is upon us, our focus goes to Washington Wine, which is what we’re led to believe. August is Washington Wine Month, so deemed by the Governor and the State Liquor Control Board. Or is it March? The folks at the Washington Wine Commission say March is Washington Wine Month. Therein lies the trickiness; can one state have two wine months?
Washington does in fact have two wine months. Both deemed as such by rather large and influential groups. And it doesn’t look like it will slow down anytime soon. Both factions have been entrenched with touting their months for the last few years. I do wonder why these two groups don’t convene to iron out which month is actually the one. I suppose having two wine months isn’t a bad thing; having more chances to celebrate and drink homegrown wine isn’t awful by drinking or marketing standards. And as we’re knee deep in August, the Washington Liquor & Spirits stores are ringing in the month by having specials on Washington wine. The catchy marketing slogan they are going with is ‘A Fine Time for Washington Wine‘. Here’s more info on the discounts involved.
For context, the March version of Washington Wine Month is more event-oriented than the August rendition. Wine shops and restaurants host dinners featuring Washington wines and wineries, and the headliner event is the grand tasting for Taste Washington. Seattlest went to the tasting this past spring, which is a part of a culmination of seminars, trade tastings, and dinners that put their spotlight on Washington Wine.
There you have it, we have two months among twelve to celebrate Washington wine. While the August version of Washington Wine Month doesn’t have the pomp and circumstance as the March version, it’s a notable effort to bring our state’s eleven American Viticultural Areas/appellations to the forefront for the second time this year. Afterall, budget cuts forced out the Washington Tourism office this year, let’s help support the Washington wine industry by buying local and drinking local. Enjoy Washington Wine Month this month, and when we begin March, we can do it all over again.
This post originally appeared on Seattlest.
Cult wines. Ask wine people their thoughts on them and you’ll get divisive opinions. On one hand, you have wines of high vineyard quality, scarcity, and prestige. On the other, you have wines that are absurdly expensive, nigh impossible to get, and carry a snob level that is only matched by those that regularly read the Robb Report. So this recent article from local wine writer Paul Gregutt is an interesting shift on the notion of cult wines. The tenet is this: The main principles of cult wines and how the scarcity, high quality, allure, etc, can all be attained by delving into the world of Washington wines.
How did the market land at this nexus of bottles of wine that fetch $300 (and more) which are often more suited for collectors than consumers? How it started is debatable, but one of the first of the notable cult wineries mentioned is Napa’s Screaming Eagle. In the early ’90’s, the folks behind Screaming Eagle released a wine with high quality grapes, but low case quantities which received high scores from wine writers. Now, people go out of their way to acquire them and often spend time searching for the next cult winery. Cult wines are often a California thing as a number of their wineries sport this status. Other California cult wineries of note are Harlan Estates, Shafer, Sine Qua Non, and Opus One. In the case of Opus One, they are so revered that Jay-Z has namechecked them.
Ever since breaking into the market, Washington’s wine industry is always on the upswing. With a growing number of wineries, high quality vineyards, and talented winemakers, Washington is consistently poised to set their worldwide mark on the industry. Some feel that Washington is the next great wine region. And in Gregutt’s article, he used Washington wine to tweak the notion of how cult wines are perceived. Instead of thinking of them as difficult to obtain, he thinks of Washington wine as easier to get a hold of and not something for collectors. This speaks to the quality of Washington wine and it’s limited quantity by means of emerging producers, but not a purposeful mandate to produce a cult wine.
Access is one of the nice things that Washington wineries have going for them. While some may have closed mailing lists, they still want to get their wine into the hands of consumers, so they work hard on distribution – a little clever Internet searching and you can likely find most anything. An added bonus to high-end Washington wines? They won’t be as expensive as those in the Screaming Eagle and Harlan fold. But that doesn’t mean they’ll be cheap either.
Washington wines entering the mindshare of the new cult start that leap to mind are Quilceda Creek and Leonetti Cellars. They are often the standard bearers and in the case of Leonetti, starting a second label that draws upon its initial success. But there are other wines in our state that can place in the new cult: Abeja, Gramercy Cellars, Cayuse, Corliss, Long Shadows, and Rasa. All can be found at your local wine shop. This is exactly the advantage about this new cult that Paul Gregutt envisions; high quality wines can not only be found without having to empty the wallet, relatively speaking.
Enjoy searching for the next great Washington wine. Who knows, you may have the next Screaming Eagle in your cellar.
This weekend was the Washington Wine Association’s Taste Washington. Basically it’s like Disneyland for wine snobs and wine geeks like myself. Broken down over the course of two days, industry people from all over come to Seattle. There were parties galore throughout the weekend, industry seminars on Saturday, and then the grand tasting on Sunday at Qwest Field Event Center. I was in wine heaven at the tasting and my purple stained teeth are able to live to tell about it.
We started our wine weekend by going to a wine tasting party put on by the good folks at Winefoot.com, Wino Magazine, and Mutineer Magazine. Always fun to be around wine people and these folks really love wine. People who feel that the juice of the grapes, the soil of the vineyards are part of their soul. Yeah, lots of people say they love wine, but to have rearranged their lives for it – they get wine. We enjoyed our wine talks with Mike Sharidan of Northwest Totem Cellars and Jason Domanico of Domanico Cellars. Will keep an eye on both of these wineries.
The Grand Tasting is the big deal of Taste Washington. You’ll be able to imbibe in hundreds of wineries, stuff your face at dozens of restaurants, and learn about the Washington wine industry. If you have any interest in any part of the world of wine you’ll be able to cater to that interest, that is what’s really cool. It’s like a massive buffet focused on wine; but instead of mediocre food, you have all you can eat and drink of top quality stuff. Woot.
After the hop are my highlights of Taste Washington.
March kicks off Washington Wine Month and there are a slew of events going on throughout the state during this month. But here is the funny thing; for how much March is touted as Washington Wine Month, August is also known as Washington Wine Month. Kind of weird – I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what the official month is, but so far, no resolution. So I suppose our little corner of the winemaking world has enough of a complex to have two ‘months’ to tout its virtues.
In “March,” a lot of wineries are partnering with restaurants (or are a lot of restaurants partnering with wineries?), so it’s a chance to visit and support some local establishments that are putting a proper spotlight on the greatness and potential that wines of Washington produce.
As Washington steps up to the world stage, it’s important that locals discover and embrace the homegrown wines we grow. In fact, the Washington Wine Commission has recently announced the 600th winery to be licensed and a new AVA has been made official in Washington – say hello to the Snipes Mountain AVA! In fact, there may be an 11th AVA as Lake Chelan’s is under review as we speak.
With this support for Washington wines, please go out and support some of the producers throughout the state. Washington produces all sorts of great wines in a number of varietals. World class wines should be quite easy to find, even your next favorite for a Wednesday dinner.
Here are my favorite Washington wines of the moment in the varietals that our state does well (note – I’m just scratching the surface of the good wines from WA, this is only a primer to whet your palate):
- Cabernet Sauvignon – Washington really shines with this red noble grape, so there are great producers everywhere. Some can be really pricey, but the Five Star Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty darn good. Vibrant fruit, with elegant tannins, this is a really nice red.
- Merlot – This varietal stands out in Washington and I really, really like the Merlot that comes from Otis Kenyon. It’s bold, complex and a standard bearer for how good the Merlot from Washington can be.
- Syrah – The Syrah’s from Betz Family Winery are amongst the best wines that come from Washington and with good reason. Their Syrah has an opulent body and complexity to match.
- Riesling – I love Riesling and outside of Alsace, I think some of the best in the world come from our state. There are a ton of great values through WA, but right now I really enjoy the Riesling from Tsillan Cellars. Bright acidity and definite aromatics, this is a nice wine with a ton of different foods – particularly shellfish and Asian foods.